The English Teacher

Kalidas Karka is one of the few non-ethnic Rai's in Mahjkarka - he's lived here for 5 years, teaching English at the local basic school.

I suspect he dressed up for us (the day before, he showed me around the school while wearing a sweater), but it was absurd watching this corporate looking man head down the rocky path to his school.

Life is.......so-so for Kalidas. He draws a 5000rs (50usd) monthly salary from the government, and learned English from years of guiding treks and working construction.

For a teacher, his English is also......so-so.

"Sir, my mind is bad thinking, many pain."

His teenage son was punched in the eye during a post-cricket brawl, the surgery (expensive) is scheduled for next month in Biratnagar (distant).

I ask him about the party, to lighten the mood. "I don't drink raksi or Chhaang," he said while making retching motions.

It's his turn to ask me questions. "You like dancing? Group dancing?"

There's a look in his eye I don't quite like, and later that night I pretend to ignore him when he enthusiastically tries to drag me into the dance circle.